Tuesday, December 13, 2005


Albanian League of Prizren Museum 4: the artefacts set into these walls include:
  • left, an iron cooking pot or cauldron;
  • centre, a piece of unidentified ceramics; and
  • right, a soapstone mortar.

Albanian League of Prizren Museum 3: the artefacts, here displayed on shelves set back into the exterior wall of the museum, include:
  • far left, what looks like a sculpture of a woollen cap, but which, I imagine, is an architectural detail;
  • centre left, what I think is a grindstone or door pivot, as it appears too large to be a loomweight;
  • centre right, an architectural detail, the top of which is reminiscent of the "woollen cap" detail on the far left; and
  • far right, a similar architectural detail, which is plainer and possibly unfinished.

Albanian League of Prizren Museum 2: this is the courtyard inside the museum complex, where some archaeological artefacts are displayed on shelves set back into the building's walls.

The artefacts are exposed outside, so they lack any protection from natural elements, like the weather and climate; however, they are accessible, so visitors can actually touch the past and feel it, which is a powerful way of engaging with it and helping to learn about it.

Albanian League of Prizren Museum 1: this is the plaque at the entrance to the Museum of the Albanian League of Prizren (Muzeumi i Lidhjes Shqiptare te Prizrenit). The League was established to protect Albanian communities from the Ottoman Empire's elites' abuses of power.

I can't remember where I got my interpretation from now; I don't have my reading with me. Vasilevs commented that:
Albanian league is the first organisation in Kosovo and Metohia (because the Kosovo is only the small part of that Srbian province)that is formed for aim of construction of "Greater Albania" (ethnic clean land of Albanians).International comunniti was help to Albanians to build that "dream".
In its piece on Prizren Municipality, Human Rights Watch included a footnote on the League of Prizren that may serve as a middle ground:
The League of Prizren was founded in 1878, bringing together representatives of all Albanian inhabited regions to demand autonomy from the Ottomans. The establishment of the League was a landmark in the movement for Albanian self-determination. The building that was destroyed-where the League was organized-archived historic documents relating to the League's creation and activities.

Sinan Pasha Mosque 8; this was built in 1600-1601 C.E.

Prizren building 69: this is a memorial to a priest.

The plaque reads:
ketu pushon: Veli Shah Baba, nga Horosani i cili vdiq ne vitin 1570. Ndertuesi i xhamise: Katip Sinani ne vitin 1577. Vorrin e Veli Shah Babes (si halim i madhe). Katip Sinani morri nen strehun e xhamise, ne anen e majte te hyrjes dhe vuri kuburen. Duke bere meremetinin ne vitin 1996 hoqen kuburen, per zgjerimin e koridorit dhe mafiles me nderime te larta xhemati i mahalles vendosi kete pllake te perjeteshme. Prizren 1997.
This translates as: "here rests Father Veli Shah, from Horosani, who was born in Vitin in 1570. A mosque, Katip Sinani, was built in Vitin in 1577..." I just found this unfinished and unpublished; I'm not going to risk making any more errors of translation and have published it as it is.

Monday, December 12, 2005


Prizren buildings 68: these are homes destroyed during ethnic cleansing; I understand that some of the houses in this area - beneath the ruins of the fourteenth-century Serbian Orthodox Church of St. Saviour - have been mined, though I don't think that they're the buildings reduced to ruins, like the central structure here.

Prizren buildings 67: these are other homes destroyed during the ethnic cleansing. I don't know what the arch was part of; as far as I can tell, it could either be an arch for a bell or for an entrance to what would previously have been an enclosed complex.

Prizren buildings 66

Prizren building 65: on this gutted and torched home, the windows of which have been smashed in, there are faint grey graffiti tags to the left of the door, "bish" and "bil".

Members or supporters of the "PDK [Partia Demokratike e Kosoves]" - the DPK (Democratic Party of Kosovo) - have tagged the far left of the house and those of the "AKSH [Armata Kombetare Shqiptare]" - the ANA (Albanian National Army) - have tagged the far right of it.

Prizren building 64: this structure's bare exterior allows us to see its construction from and maintenance in manifold materials, including brick, wood, concrete and plaster. The interior is severely stained with what I suspect is rising damp.

Prizren building 63: I was particularly struck by this former home, probably because it still had its number (32) on it. It's been burned out and smashed up, the remaining shell filled with rubbish and other waste. A fresh bin bag of domestic waste sit atop the existing spoil heap, which is half the height of the room.

The site is undergoing ecological succession. Pioneer species of annual plants that colonised the ruins are being replaced by perennial plants and grasses and they by shrubs. The plant in the far corner of the room may be a softwood tree.

The succession here might be so advanced because the plants that colonise the site in the later stages were deposited in the rubbish; otherwise, it might be because the home was destroyed in the 1998-1999 Kosovo War, rather than the 2004 riots.

Prizren building 62: some sites destroyed during ethnic cleansing, which, for one reason or another, were unsuitable for use as rubbish tips or makeshift car parks, have been left as they were.

Some sites may have (economic migrant or refugee) emigre owners, who the local community recognise and accept as the owner, in which case they will be left as they are.

Prizren building 61: many sites destroyed during ethnic cleansing were then filled with waste. Evading the government's refusal to allow destroyed sites to be concreted over and converted into car parks, some sites were left as they were and cars were parked in them.

Unfortunately, when I visited those sites, people who lived by them and who may have been using them as car parks were present; I didn't want to offend them, so I chose not to take photographs.

Prizren building 60: this house appears, not merely to have degraded naturally, but to have been damaged deliberately.

Prizren political art 3: NATO vehicles and other property have an arrow-like symbol and the name, "NATO", printed on them, similar to this logo.

There are sites where members or supporters of the Kosovo Liberation Army (KLA) (Ushtria Clirimtare e Kosoves (UCK)), have written "UCK" and "NATO", signifying their alliance, so it is possible that this is a tag for an ally who, obviously, would never write a tag themselves.

The solitary marker, on a burned-out building, however, suggests that it may be, rather, branding by an opponent of the NATO bombing, indelibly tying NATO's intervention with the deaths of civilians and the destruction of communities.

Prizren palimpsest 4: on the first set of posters in which some recognisable features remain, there is an open hand, possibly reaching up to the sky or out for something; on the posters over those appear to be for one political party ("partia") or another, which, unremarkably, claims to be right or just ("drejte"); the posters over those advertise, "Identiteti: Drame nga Albatros Rexhaj ne regji te Kastriot Saqipit... Une do ta them vetem te verteten", which translates as "Identity: a film from Albatros Redzhay and produced by Kastriot Sachipit... I will say the whole truth".

Sunday, December 11, 2005


Prizren building 59: "Gjon Buzuku, Shek XVI" ("John Buzuku, Sixteenth Century"), a Catholic priest, wrote and published the first Albanian language book, which was a translation of the Latin language Catholic Missal, a text explaining how to conduct masses. This monument was in a school playground.

Prizren building 58: "McDona" is another eatery with a pleasing corruption of the McDonald's brand.

There was also a reinterpretation of McDonald's imagery in Mitrovice.

Prizren building 57: this is a home that was destroyed during ethnic cleansing; it really is a jarring experience to look through a window into a house and see the sky. I think the poster on the bottom left of the building was part of a political campaign, but it's too degraded to identify; it may just have been a music promotion.
Work-in-progress: many more photos have yet to be posted; I hope to upload them soon. I've been working on another aspect of my project, but I should be able to split my time soon.

Please be patient.

Saturday, December 10, 2005


Prizren building 56: this is a close-up of the mosque.

Prizren building 55: this is another of Prizren's many mosques. When some local Albanian youths saw me getting ready to take the photograph, they got my attention, then, jokingly, warned me that, "they [KFOR] will shoot you!" and that, "they will kill you!"

To limit the intelligence available to potential terrorists, KFOR ban photographs of their bases and staff and in order to protect Kosova/Kosovo's cultural heritage, they have converted some cultural heritage sites into military sites.

Thankfully, I never had a gun pointed at me, but the KFOR soldiers always made it very clear to me that I couldn't take any photographs of sites at which they were present, even if I ensured that they were out-of-shot.

I had already taken photographs of the fourteenth-century Serbian Orthodox Church of St. Saviour and, though they were from a great distance and the military installation was obscured, they did ask for me to delete them (and I did).

Catholic Cathedral of the Skilful Helper 6: some other walls are brick-built and have iron railings on top. The railings include these sections, which display a cross in front of a sunburst design. I do not know if there is any significance to them, but there are small grill panels spreading out from the base of the cross; I suppose that it might be a stylised eagle.

Catholic Cathedral of the Skilful Helper 5: some of the outer walls of the complex are cast concrete and some of those are raised with symbols, including a cross, set into them. On the left, there is another gateway into the cathedral (Cathedral Zoja Ndihmetare or Katedrale Zoja Ndihmetare).

Catholic Cathedral of the Skilful Helper 4: this is a view of the cathedral (Cathedral Zoja Ndihmetare or Katedrale Zoja Ndihmetare) through the main gateway.

Catholic Cathedral of the Skilful Helper 3: this portrait of Mother Teresa hangs outside the cathedral (Cathedral Zoja Ndihmetare or Katedrale Zoja Ndihmetare).

Prizren building 54: this is one of the many mosques in Prizren.

Prizren building 53; I don't know what set of acts and events led to this building being in this state. It's not destroyed or as badly damaged as many of the buildings attacked, but the combination of physical and fire damage suggests that it wasn't an accident. The plaster work is damaged, revealing the many different components in the structure's construction.

On the far left, there is the graffiti tag, "PDK [Partia Demokratike e Kosoves]", "DPK [Democratic Party of Kosovo]". On the left, there is what appears to be fire damage to exposed wood. I think that the faded Serbian language print on the right of the building reads, "jedinica" - "unit" - or "jedinjenje" - "compound".

Prizren buildings 52: this was a home; I believe it was destroyed during the riots of the 17th and 18th of March 2004.

Catholic Cathedral of the Skilful Helper 2: this is the bell tower of the cathedral (Cathedral Zoja Ndihmetare or Katedrale Zoja Ndihmetare).

Municipal Red Cross Centre: this building, built in 1932, in the characteristic style of the 1930s. The sign reads, "Organizata Komunal e Kryqit te Kuq [the Municipal Organisation of the Red Cross]... Prizren... Kryqi i Kuq i Kosoves... Red Cross of Kosova".

Catholic Cathedral of the Skilful Helper 1: this is a gateway to the cathderal (Cathedral Zoja Ndihmetare or Katedrale Zoja Ndihmetare). Its pillars have been graffitied by members or supporters of the AKSH (Armata Kombetare Shqiptare) - the ANA (Albanian National Army) - and of the PDK (Partia Demokratike e Kosoves) - the DPK (Democratic Party of Kosovo).

Prizren buildings 51; I think the building behind this tower is the Cathedral of the Skilful Helper (Cathedral Zoja Ndihmetare or Katedrale Zoja Ndihmetare).